Sunday, June 21, 2015

Smokin'

I love barbecue.  Now, let's define that.  We need to be clear what we're talking about.  When someone says "I'll call you in the morning" I ask "what do you mean by morning?" because I am a night owl, and anything before noon is too early for me...  When I say barbecue (or BBQ, or however you want to spell it) I mean meat cooked slowly, with smoke.  Not a steak on a grill ("cooking out," "grilling,") not barbecue sauce on baked chicken.  I like that stuff too, but it's not barbecue.  I mean smoked meat.  Oh, with the odd vegetable thrown in, maybe.  I've only done a little barbecuing myself; I leave it to the experts.  I've tried it in all the major American regions: Memphis, Kansas City, North and South Carolina, Chicago.  Only big one I've missed is Texas, and I'm there right now.  I still want to try Kentucky mutton (I've had it in Ohio, and it was good.)  I've had Korean BBQ and love it.   I'll try it anywhere and everywhere, whatever cut or species you want to cook up.  I've had it in fancy places, at shacks, and in peoples' backyards.  I love it.

Barbecue started as just meat over a fire, and the tougher cuts needed longer, slower heat to become tender.  That led to smoke infusing the meat, and techniques and flavors just took off from there.  Today, the best BBQ is pretty close to the original simplicity- good meat, over good wood, for a long time.  A few seasonings, maybe, but not drowned in sauce.  When I see meat swimming in sauce I figure they're covering up something about the meat. 

I grew up eating ribs at a little place in the middle of nowhere, in Ohio.  Ohio is not known for barbecue, but we do ribs pretty well; often someone moved here from far away, or visited and brought back something they loved.  Ohio tends to have a blend of styles and meats, so you can try a little of everything.  I still go back to that place once in awhile.  It's simple, and cheap, and good.  I try barbecue wherever I go.  I'm often disappointed, since the definition is so broad and tastes vary.  Many people talk about meat "falling off the bone," which sounds nice in theory and is a bit of a euphemism.  I have had meat shlurp right off the bone when I pick it up, and it's hard to eat that way.  Plus, it has probably been boiled or otherwise wrongly- or over-cooked, and has little flavor.  But boy is it tender!  Anyway, I prefer flavor.  Dry rubs are usually best; a little sauce at the end sometimes adds a little, but usually covers up the meat.

I'm a rib fan.  Miss Mox loves brisket.  We both can go for good pulled pork.  She shies away from the odder meats and sauces, whereas I am tempted to try them.  As you read this, I am probably stuffed with Texas brisket (and kolache, but that's another story.)


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